published fortnightly on wednesdays.
about this blog
Dave Barr is the comic alter ego of a nondescript human person from Aotearoa New Zealand who confusingly is also called Dave Barr. He has not seen all that much of the world, and has no right to be writing a travel blog. Or any kind of blog whatsoever. Recognising his shortcomings, he has pretty much just resorted to talking rubbish on any particular topic. He really should stop calling this a travel blog.
recap
In Episode 30 Dave looked at a whole heap of old stuff that Britain had pinched from other nations. Naughty Britain.
eurostar
On the first Monday of my European sojourn, I got on the tube and travelled to St Pancras Station in London. St Pancras happened to be right next to this station – the historic King’s Cross Station.
After repeatedly ramming my face into the wall between platforms 9 and 10 at King’s Cross, I accepted that I was not in fact a wizard and moved on to St Pancras.
As a resident of a country where a 3 hour flight in any direction is required to find another country and avoid wet feet, the idea of having to go through passport control to catch a train was about as novel as Charles Dickenseses “A Tale of Two Cities”, a lengthy tale about London and Paris. The novel would have moved far quicker had the London to Paris journey been manageable in a 3hr train ride, which it now is, due to the Eurostar and the channel tunnel. Lucky for me.
Embarking on the train, it was a short trip through the english countryside, through the tunnel, into the french countryside and then Paris. All in all the trip was pleasant, but the view from the tunnel was nothing to write home about.
the channel tunnel
The Channel Tunnel is a 50.5-kilometre rail tunnel linking England with France. At its lowest point, it is 75 m deep and the tunnel has the longest undersea portion of any tunnel in the world.
Ideas for a cross-Channel fixed link appeared as early as 1802,but British political and press pressure over the compromising of national security stalled attempts to construct a tunnel. The eventual project, organised by Eurotunnel, began construction in 1988 and opened in 1994.
Since its construction, the tunnel has faced several problems. Both fires and cold weather have disrupted its operation. Illegal immigrants have attempted to use the tunnel to enter the UK.
However, by far the most notorious incident involving the tunnel was the 2013 discovery of the body of french politician Marie Villaneuve at the Channel Tunnel’s midpoint between France and the UK. The body had been cut in half, and the lower half of the body belonged to a Welsh prostitute. Stanis Baratheon and Fleur Delacour proceeded to investigate the murder for the English and French Authorities respectively. It later transpired that the murder was a copycat killing of a similar incident on the Copenhagen to Malmo bridge (joining Denmark and Sweden), the investigation of which played out in a very similar manner except it was subtitled.
autocorrect
Autocorrect turned “Stanis Baratheon” to “Stains Baratheon”, so here are some other autocorrected GoT names (just because):
- Tyrone Lannister
- Viceroy’s Taragon
- Areas Taragon
- Area Stark
- Sawmill Tardy
- Then Greyly
- Jonah Mormont
- Jon Snow
paris
The first thing I found in Paris was this restaurant, which would no doubt be loved in NZ, but hated in Australia, despite being a clearly superior establishment to La Vegemite.
french salad
Because we had a big afternoon of walking planned, I decided to have a light salad for lunch. I ordered a salad, and when it arrived on inspection it contained the following ingredients:
- three potatoes, thinly sliced and deep fried
- half a kilogram of bacon
- an entire block of cheese
- a whole jar of mayonnaise
- two cherry tomatoes
- one rocket leaf
My travel companion, a parisian, ordered a chocolate mousse. For lunch. Without being judged. And then the waiter, rather than asking me what I wanted to drink, said “you would like a beer”. He was right.
I realised that I was going to enjoy Paris.
montmartre
From there it was a gentle stroll toward Montmartre, where we came across this replica of the windmill from the 2001 Baz Luhrmann film Moulin Rouge:
While it is clear that they had tried their best to build an accurate replica, they just didn’t seem to have matched the look and feel of the original. Much like the problem with these models of the Eiffel Tower that I found in a nearby shop:
From the replica of the Moulin Rouge it was onward up Montmartre to this view of Paris:
And the Sacré-Cœur Basilica:
I have no idea what Sacré-Cœur means in English, but when you say it aloud it sounds like a swearword – and a pretty intense swearword at that. For that reason I assume it means something completely filthy, and, to protect my browser history, I have refused to use google to find the translation.
champs-elysses
From Sacré-Cœur we meandered down the hill and through some of the side streets and old alleys until we reached the building at the beginning of the Champs-Elysses – the Louvre. A museum so impressive that it has a type of window named after it.
My friend / tour guide explained that the louvre had been the house of the french king Louis XIV (pronounced Lou-ee the fourteenth, rather than Lou-is zhiv as I had always mistakenly believed).
Turns out he was the fourteenth King called Louis, and he was succeeded by Louis the fifteenth who was then succeeded by Louis the sixteenth! It was at that point that I decided I would buy France a book of baby names for Christmas.
Strolling along the Champs-Elysses is a strange experience. You start off in the beautiful former royal gardens, and then about halfway along the walk you suddenly hit the most high-class stores which are only broken up by the occasional italian restaurant. At the end of the boulevard you reach one of Paris’ famous landmarks, the Arc de Triomphe:
arc de triomphe
The Arc de Triomphe was commissioned by Napoleon in 1806, construction commenced in 1810, and was completed in 1836.
Designed by architect Jean Chalgin, The monument stands 50m in height, 45m wide and 22m deep. The large vault is 29.19m high and 14.62m wide. The small vault is 18.68m high and 8.44m wide. Its design was inspired by the Roman Arch of Titus. The Arc de Triomphe is built on such a large scale that a biplane was flown through it to celebrate the end of World War II.
The Arc de Triomphe was constructed to allow victorious french armies to march underneath it as part of victory parades when returning from battle. 180 years after its completion, the French people are still waiting for their first opportunity to use the Arc de Triomphe for its intended purpose.
opera house
From the Champs-Elysses it was a short stroll to the Paris Opera House, which has special significance for New Zealanders as it was once terrorised by former Blackcaps fast bowler Chris Martin.
chris martin’s batting record
Chris Martin has the lowest ratio of runs scored to wickets taken in test cricket, scoring 0.52 of a run for every wicket taken. He has the lowest average for any player who has played more than 20 innings, the record for most pairs and he shares the record for most golden ducks. The main reason why he never got the record for the most ducks is the tendency of batsmen to swing for the fences when he came to the crease, often sacrificing their wicket knowing the innings would soon be over. He comfortably leads the test records for the highest ratio of innings where he was not dismissed. He received standing ovations for, amongst other things, a successful forward defence shot, and playing out an over without being dismissed (when Jesse Ryder was on 99).
Chris Martin, aka the Phantom, was, without doubt, the most exciting batsman ever to play cricket. No one would ever go to the toilet or to make a cup of tea while he was batting (due to both the excitement and the near-certainty that a ten-minute break in play would shortly follow).
fondue
After the parisian salad, I decided that we needed something even heavier for dinner.
What better way to finish the day than with bread and cured meats covered in cheese.
If everything is better with cheese, why not just have a melted pot of cheese? Ah Paris, you win.
next episode
Dave goes to the Louvre and finds out that it is closed on Tuesdays. Then he goes to the Musee d’Lorangerie, and finds out that it is closed on Tuesdays. So he goes to the Musee d’Orsay, which is closed on Tuesdays. Then he has a nap on the lawn in front of the Eiffel Tower.