Episode 38 – Laparoscopic Cholecystectomy

screen-shot-2016-11-26-at-9-33-01-am
published fortnightly on wednesdays.

about this blog

Dave Barr is the comic alter ego of a nondescript human person from Aotearoa New Zealand who confusingly is also called Dave Barr. He has not seen all that much of the world, and has no right to be writing a travel blog. Or any kind of blog whatsoever. Recognising his shortcomings, he has pretty much just resorted to talking rubbish on any particular topic. He really should stop calling this a travel blog.

recap

In Episode 36 Dave travelled to Rome, and a Gorilla escaped from the London Zoo! In this episode, he takes a break from the narrative to have his gall bladder removed.

 

pain

A few months ago I awoke in the early hours of the morning to a ridiculous amount of pain in my abdomen and thought I was going to die. So, being a man, I took the only reasonable course of action in the circumstances and waited for it to get better on its own. Which it did, proving my judgment to be very sound indeed.

However, this was not the end of the story. If it was, this would be a very short episode of this blog. Or, as it should be, no episode at all as this is a travel blog. Blogging about my trip to the hospital is a real stretch.

Over the next few months I continued to suffer from intermittent severe pain so I decided to google my symptoms. After some reading on wikipedia it was determined that I had gallstones (and this was subsequently confirmed by a doctor).

gallstones

A gallstone is a stone formed within the gallbladder out of bile components.  Most people with gallstones (about 80%) never have symptoms. However, 1–4% of people with gallstones suffer from what wikipedia describes as “a crampy pain in the right upper part of the abdomen”, and what I describe as “fucking Jebus kill me now pain in the who cares where just please do something about it for the love of god”.

In the developed world, 10–15% of adults have gallstones. Rates in many parts of Africa, however, are as low as 3%. Gallbladder and biliary related diseases occurred in about 104 million people (1.6%) in 2013 and they resulted in 106,000 deaths.Women more commonly have stones than men and they occur more commonly after the age of 40, leading me to suspect that I am in fact an elderly woman.

hospital

Early one Monday morning I woke up at 0530 to travel to hospital for an early admission for surgery.

And that, together with the drive home, qualifies this as a travel story.

Laparoscopic cholecystectomy

The technical name for the procedure to remove my gall bladder was a “laparoscopic cholecystectomy”.

Basically they cut a hole in your belly button through which a pipe is inserted. Through that pipe they pump in CO2 to inflate your belly, after which three further small incisions are made. Through these incisions they inner a camera and all the surgical tools needed for the operation – unless something goes wrong in which case they then cut a further massive hole. Luckily for me nothing went wrong so they were able to proceed with the four-hole belly-balloon surgery.

recovery and post surgical

After a few healthy doses of morphine and an overnight hospital stay, I was off home with few side-effects other than the inability to properly put together a travel blog.

 

 

next episode

Dave goes to the colosseum. Will you be entertained?

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Gall Bladder Removal

So I learnt a few things these past few months:

  • Gall stones are painful.
  • General anaesthetics really knock you around.
  • Morphine really knocks you around.
  • Tramadol really knocks you around.
  • In light of the above 3 bullet points, planning on writing a blog while recovering from a laproscopic cholestysectomy is not as smart as it sounds (and that is in full acknowledgement of the fact that it doesn’t sound smart to begin with).

Trepid Journeys will return on 30 November. Apologies.

Episode 37 – The da Vinci Code Tour (day two)

screen-shot-2016-10-29-at-8-48-22-pmpublished fortnightly on wednesdays.

about this blog

Dave Barr is the comic alter ego of a nondescript human person from Aotearoa New Zealand who confusingly is also called Dave Barr. He has not seen all that much of the world, and has no right to be writing a travel blog. Or any kind of blog whatsoever. Recognising his shortcomings, he has pretty much just resorted to talking rubbish on any particular topic. He really should stop calling this a travel blog.

recap

In Episode 36 Dave travelled to Rome, and a Gorilla escaped from the London Zoo!

rome

My usual holiday strategy is to to visit all the tourist attractions in each city in one hit, to free up as much time as possible for drinking and eating. Rome presented a large difficulty for me in executing this strategy, due to:

  • too much touristy stuff;
  • too much foody stuff; and
  • aperol spritzes.

As a result, I decided to split up the touristy stuff into two categories:

  • religo; and
  • non-religo.

This plan fell apart as soon as I looked at a map and found that the Trevi fountain (non-religo) and pantheon (religo) was on the route to the vatican (religo).

After a quick rethink I split the activities up into categories of:

  • Dan Brown booksy; and
  • non- Dan Brown booksy.

With the change in plan I was able to proceed to the Trevi fountain. but instead I found a cafe and ordered a pastry and a coffee.

italian coffee

For those who have not visited Aotearoa-New Zealand, there is a little known fact about the place where they filmed lord of the rings where everyone wishes people would stop going on about it being the place where they filmed lord of the rings: Aotearoa-New Zealand has amazing coffee.

England does not have amazing coffee. It has, at best, coffee.

France does not have amazing coffee. France has passable coffee.

Italy does not have amazing coffee. But after 10 days of crap to barely passable coffee, my cappuccino in Rome tasted like amazing coffee. The pastry and coffee was a good decision.

trevi fountain

The Trevi fountain, commissioned by Pope Urban VIII*, is constructed on the terminal point of one of the aqueducts that served ancient Rome.

Now it is famous for being surrounded by an inordinate amount of tourists with selfie-sticks and a completely unreasonable ban on swimming.

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*Pope Urban VIII is considered the father of urban planning. The Trevi Fountain was part of his vision of urban regeneration of key community focal areas leading to the revival of historically important districts within a city. This fact is based purely on his name and is backed up by no research or factual basis whatsoever.

pantheon

Next on the tourist trip of Dan Brown sites was the pantheon.

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Interesting fact about the Pantheon: if you take a photo in the right amount of sunlight it will look like a painting:

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vatican

The next destination on the Dan Brown tour was the smallest country on earth – the Vatican City. With an area of about 44 hectares, and a population of roughly 1,000, the vatican has both the highest proportion of land area covered in queues (~78%), and the highest proportion of its population currently standing in queues (1,200,000% – most of whom are tourists).

The only people in the Vatican who aren’t standing in queues are tourist guides who are selling the opportunity to skip the queue by signing up to a tour. As refined as they are at sucking tourists into their sales pitch by appearing to proffer helpful information before actually selling the tour, I only got caught out 15 or 16 times before I wised up to their game.

Once inside the Vatican, we looked around some of the places that I learnt about having been raised catholic. Like Versailles, it seemed that every wall and ceiling was covered with amazing artwork.

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Or lined with maps

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Although the ships were not painted to scale

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In St Peter’s Basilica I saw this statue of Pope Jedimindtrick

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But then Pope Oiyougetthehellout told me to leave, so I left.

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catholicism

[section deleted due to concerns about offending 1.2 billion people who have a 2,000 year-old jewish carpenter for an imaginary best friend] 

next episode

Dave does more stuff in Rome!

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Episode 36 -When in Rome

screen-shot-2016-10-16-at-8-26-51-pmpublished fortnightly on wednesdays.

about this blog

Dave Barr is the comic alter ego of a nondescript human person from Aotearoa New Zealand who confusingly is also called Dave Barr. He has not seen all that much of the world, and has no right to be writing a travel blog. Or any kind of blog whatsoever. Recognising his shortcomings, he has pretty much just resorted to talking rubbish on any particular topic. He really should stop calling this a travel blog.

recap

In Episode 35 Dave went to Versaille!

paris to rome

On a Friday I rose in Paris, got on a plane, and flew to Rome. Mindful of the proverb “When in Rome”,  I contemplated eating Italian food, drinking too much wine, having an orgy, feeding some Christians to some lions, watching some blood sport, crossing the Rubicon and imposing imperial rule, getting repeatedly attacked by Germans and relocating my governance functions to Istanbul after having a profound impact on western society and altering the course of world history. As that isn’t how I like to spend a Friday, I ate pizza and drunk aperol spritzes instead.

Giving me nothing to write about.

Luckily, the true hero of this blog came to the rescue. Remember this guy?

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His name is Kumbuka, and we visited him in the London Zoo. Kumbuka, recognising my lack of material escaped his enclosure.

So I have still have nothing to write about in respect of my travels, but now you can read about gorillas instead.

gorillas

Gorillas are really cool for many reasons. Here are some:

  • Gorillas’ taxonomic name is gorilla gorilla, second only in coolness  to the boa constrictor, whose taxonomic name is boa constrictor. Avoids the need to learn latin or greek.
  • Gorillas are so much like humans that, in about 500BC, an explorer from Carthage mistook gorillas in Sierra Leone for hairy aggressive humans. True story. Kind of.
  • Gorillas are human’s second closest relatives (behind chimpanzees).
  • Gorillas have really tiny balls, but they’re cool with that.

next episode

Next week you can read about the Vatican. Whether in this blog or just generally on the internet.

Enjoyed this blog? Well tell your friends. And follow me on twitter. And like my Facebook page.

Episode 35 – Versailles

screen-shot-2016-10-01-at-5-46-58-pmpublished fortnightly on wednesdays.

about this blog

Dave Barr is the comic alter ego of a nondescript human person from Aotearoa New Zealand who confusingly is also called Dave Barr. He has not seen all that much of the world, and has no right to be writing a travel blog. Or any kind of blog whatsoever. Recognising his shortcomings, he has pretty much just resorted to talking rubbish on any particular topic. He really should stop calling this a travel blog.

recap

In Episode 32 Dave visited the most famous museums in Paris for the second time, but this time they were open.

train strike the first 

On a Thursday I rose in Paris to news that the trains were on strike. given that trains were the only way to reach my destination, I decamped to a cafe for a crepe, a coffee, and three beers.

versailles

My destination was the former residence of King Louis the XIV – Versailles. This was the second former residence of King Louis the the XIV that I visited, have earlier thrice visited the Louvre. Like the Louvre, Versailles was now a museum – but the building and grounds are so impressive that the palace complex is the museum.

Walking through the front gates it was immediately clear that this was a building designed to impress people. And it worked. I was impressed.

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Each corridor was marble floored, arched, and statue lined.

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The roof painting contractor really went to town:

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There were stunning statues and busts just built into alcoves in each corridor.

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And this painting of Louis the XIV. The mind boggles as to how well trained the horse was to hold that pose for long enough to be painted:

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And then it was on to the famous shall of mirror, where the roof painting contractor had just gone nuts:

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Overall it was Gaudy and overdone, suggesting that Louis XIV, like an owner of a Porsche Cayenne, had plenty of money but no taste.

I left the palace for the gardens feeling less than whelmed.

the versaille gardens

The gardens at Versaille provide a very impressive view of the palace:

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And, by rotating your body through 180 degrees, a very impressive view of the fountains , gardens and canal.

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A wander down the path and a saunter to the right finds you in some maze like paths, filled with statues that are somewhat reminiscent of the fourth Harry Potter movie, but without the corpse of Robert Pattinson

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As you wander through the garden the sheer scale of the lines of trees and long lawns is amazing, like this example of one of the trickiest fairways ever constructed:

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When you caught a view of the canal the perfect symmetry of the gardens, and made you appreciate just how difficult the gardens would have been to care for prior to the advent of ride-on lawnmowers.

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Walking around the Gardens, every now and agains you would catch a glimpse through the trees of the palace.

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More photos, just because:

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politics

The construction of Versaille was in part a ploy by King Louis the XIV to transition from a weak to absolute monarchy. The palace consist of some 350 apartments, where nobility from all over France were forced to reside in an attempt to prevent the development of regional power.

Rather than being the expansive palace that it appears to be today, Versaille at its peak was a cross between a crowded apartment building and the world’s flashes prison.

the Trianon

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The Gardens of Versaille were so expansive and massive and awesome that they neatly concealed a further palace complex (the Trianon) containing two further palaces (the Grand Trianon and the Petit Trianon).

Basically what would happen is the french kings had realised the advantages in housing their wives some 3km down the road, while housing their mistresses in apartments above their own. Smart.img_2630

The Trianon was the home of Marie Antoinette, who I know nothing about other than she said “let them eat cake ” (history lesson courtesy of Freddie Mercury).

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Trianon garden:

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World’s toughest pool table:

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The canal was a giant cross, and this  is the cross piece:

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Best BYC venue ever (or so I thought at the time:img_2654

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World’s bravest snail – just hanging in the open in Paris:

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All in all a full day spent walking around the gardens and I was impressed. And tired. I thought of the Les Miserable lyric “a fly can fly around Versaille cos flies don’t care” and thought “bullshit”. It would take a very motivated, driven fly to fly around Versaille, as my dedicated effort on foot had left me exhausted and only one-third of the grounds had been covered.

And then as I left the grounds I passed the bicycles and golf carts for hire stands. Bugger.

next episode

Dave goes to Italy!

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Episode 34 – Art Boners

Screen Shot 2016-08-21 at 5.40.04 PMpublished fortnightly on wednesdays.

about this blog

Dave Barr is the comic alter ego of a nondescript human person from Aotearoa New Zealand who confusingly is also called Dave Barr. He has not seen all that much of the world, and has no right to be writing a travel blog. Or any kind of blog whatsoever. Recognising his shortcomings, he has pretty much just resorted to talking rubbish on any particular topic. He really should stop calling this a travel blog.

recap

In Episode 32 Dave visited the most famous museums in Paris, all of which were closed.

art

On a Wednesday I rose in Paris and immediately made the trek to the Louvre, stopping only for a crepe, a coffee, and three beers.

On arrival in the Louvre it became immediately apparent that it was a far better tourist destination when open than when closed. Being the former residence of the French monarchs it was still a pretty and amazing tourist destination when closed. I mean the whole place is pretty awe inspiring. But, objectively, being able to get inside did improve the experience somewhat. In fact, it improved it significantly.

Upon entering, I consulted my map and made my way to the Mona Lisa, discovering that a few hundred others had the exact same idea.

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After viewing the Mona Lisa, i made my way through the renaissance artwork to discover that it mostly consisted of half-naked Jesuses (Jesi?) and renaissance boob. Lots and lots of renaissance boob. So much boob. If the Louvre was in America it would be R16.

The renaissance art lead through to stone-age boob (with an accepting tolerance of public breast feeding that should be admired),

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and what appeared to be a semi-castrated naked man.

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Toddler molesting swan:

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Renaissance sculpted boob:

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From the Louvre it was on to the Musee de l’Orangerie, where I was surrounded by Monet paintings – literally.

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While I was at first excited to see the famous Monet lilies, I was disappointed to learn that Monet wasn’t a real painter – he was just an impressionist.

Next on my stop was the Musee d’Orsay for some impressionist boob:

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This was followed by some more Monet (Monet, Monet, Monet, ain’t it funnay).

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And then the highlight of the day, Van Gogh’s starry night:

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Followed by Van Gogh’s trend-setting first ever selfie (albeit that it took about a century for the trend to catch on).

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Following which it was immediately banned:

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bones

In the last episode I visited an arena from Roman times, which raises some obvious issues, such as the fact that Paris is old. Freaking old. Older than my Gran and she is ancient.

When a city gets really old, due to the number of people who have died there:

  1. cemeteries get really full;
  2. the cities need the cemetery land for housing; and
  3. all the people who care about the people buried in the cemeteries are also in those cemeteries.

So how did Paris solve this issue? To answer that we need to journey back in time – to the Triassic period. From the Triassic period through to the Pliocene, Paris’ usually inclement damp weather was far far worse, largely due to the fact that it was underwater for several hundred million years. During that time, the shellfish industry in France thrived (despite no obvious shellfish market), resulting in a layer of limestone being deposited some twenty metres under the surface of the present day city.

Fast forward to Roman times, and the romans needed limestone to build pizza ovens, towers of an odd inclinature and other stereotypically  italian things. So they dug down twenty metres ad started excavating the limestone, creating a network of tunnels under the city.

Fast forward another 1700 years and, along with the overflowing cemeteries Paris was suffering from a series of cave-ins from the limestone tunnels. So they decided to try to kill two birds with one stone. After a series of complaints from the SPCA they turned their minds to solving the cemetery and cave-in issues by:

  1. reinforcing the tunnels; and
  2. moving the bones into them.

Arriving at the entrance to the tunnels, we descended down a spiral staircase which went down about ten stories.

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Exiting at the bottom, I found myself in a long limestone tunnel which, while boring at first, suddenly became spooky when I came across a wall of bones topped with obviously human skulls.

IMG_1119Followed by long corridors flanked by piles of bones.
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There were alcoves formed by bones with skulls arranged in patterns.

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And, just when things couldn’t get any creepier, a wee bit of skull and bones art.
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A skull barrel

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It was like strolling through a horror film just before the shit hit the fan. And, because it was a tourist staple, there was plenty of very attractive young ladies everywhere. Just like a horror film.

After seeing all these ancient bones I did the only reasonable thing and started drinking. this was a wise move.

next episode

Dave goes to Versailles!

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Episode 33 – A brief episode espousing the virtues of craft beer, Texan BBQ, the big green egg and apologies

Screen Shot 2016-08-21 at 5.40.04 PMpublished fortnightly on wednesdays.

about this blog

Dave Barr is the comic alter ego of a nondescript human person from Aotearoa New Zealand who confusingly is also called Dave Barr. He has not seen all that much of the world, and has no right to be writing a travel blog. Or any kind of blog whatsoever. Recognising his shortcomings, he has pretty much just resorted to talking rubbish on any particular topic. He really should stop calling this a travel blog.

recap

In Episode 32 Dave visited the most famous museums in Paris, all of which were closed. He then promised to tell you all about it in this episode. Spoiler Alert: He breaks that promise.

apology

There are many reasons why I don’t meet my own deadlines. Once, when I should have been writing my blog, I was instead drinking wine in a lovely little bar in Ponsonby, Auckland, called Mea Culpa – that was my fault.

Other times, my professional alter ego has too much work on, that work being necessary to pay the bills (the satire travel blog with limited readership and zero revenue streams game is not as lucrative as you might think).

As you have probably now guessed, the reason I am writing this apology is because I have to apologise for something, namely that I have not yet completed my episode on the parisian museums.

Unusually the main reason for me not meeting my deadline was meat. Namely, Texan style slow cooked BBQ meat. Lots of Texan Style BBQ meat.

Let’s strap ourselves into a Delorean, switch on the flux capacitor, and travel forward in the timeline of this blog a week and a half, where we find ourselves in Copenhagen, Denmark.

Capture

In Copenhagen, there is a Brewpub called Warpigs. Warpigs serves the most delicious Craft beer and Texas Style BBQ I have ever had.* Since going there, it has been my goal to go back. Since this is somewhat impractical, last week I bought myself a Big Green Egg BBQ, which is capable of the “slow low” cooking style that is the hallmark of Texas BBQ.**

I then visited the local liquor store and bought a selection of Garage Project IPA’s and APA’s, and lit the BBQ. The results?

  • Drunkenness;
  • Meat Sweats;
  • Deliciousness; and
  • no work done on my blog.

I apologise profusely, and falsely, because I’m not actually sorry. It was worth it. And the Big Green Egg is now my favourite piece of cooking equipment (it also works as a pizza oven and a charcoal grill. And it does beer can chicken).

* noting that I have never been to Texas. 

** as the BBQ cost significantly more than tickets to Denmark, this may have been poor economics.

next episode

Dave actually does go to the Louvre, the Musee d’Lorangerie, and the Musee d’Orsay, again, but this time they are open. And he goes to the Catacombs and wanders how they aren’t more famous.

Enjoyed this blog? Well tell your friends. And follow me on twitter. And like my Facebook page.

Episode 32 – Paris… Paris!!!

Screen Shot 2016-08-21 at 5.40.04 PMpublished fortnightly on wednesdays.

about this blog

Dave Barr is the comic alter ego of a nondescript human person from Aotearoa New Zealand who confusingly is also called Dave Barr. He has not seen all that much of the world, and has no right to be writing a travel blog. Or any kind of blog whatsoever. Recognising his shortcomings, he has pretty much just resorted to talking rubbish on any particular topic. He really should stop calling this a travel blog.

recap

In Episode 31 Dave travelled to Paris and ate healthily… for Paris. It’s subjective.

Omelette

Awaking on my second day in Paris I awoke to find that I was now awake.

Leaving my hotel I wandered down the street to discover that the cafe featured in movies with the red awning and red chairs outside is in fact every cafe in Paris. Stopping at the fourth one on the left, I had a delicious omelette and an espresso, discovering in the process that french coffee is pretty rubbish.

French omelettes however, are amazing.

Paris landmarks

After breakfast I meandered off to see the sights of Paris. remembering that Paris had many sights, I then decided that a meander was an inappropriate pace so lifted my cadence and stride length to a light stroll.

Walking through Paris is an assault on the olfactory senses, with every few steps causing an alternation between overpowering smells of faeces, delicious food, and urine as each odour competes for territorial dominance.

The Seine was a foul smelling brown sludge. Despite this, it still managed to be quite beautiful.

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I’d been warned about the level of crime in the area, but the real extent of this only hit home when I crossed this bridge where thousands of bicycles had been stolen over the years, with the thieves leaving only the padlocks that had chained the bicycle to the bridge behind.

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My plan was to spend the majority of the day at the Louvre. Arriving at the Louvre to discover it did not open on Tuesdays, I decided that would be an incredibly boring way to spend the day. So I moved on to the Musee de L’orangerie, which also did not open on Tuesdays. Luckily for me, the Musee d’Orsay was also nearby, just a short walk across the Seine. as I cannot walk on water, I strolled (consistency) across a bridge to the Musee d’Orsay to discover that it was also closed on Tuesdays. So I went to the Eiffel Tower.

Eiffel Tower

The Eiffel Tower in Paris, completed in 1889, is a replica of the Eiffel Tower in Las Vegas.

The Eiffel Tower is one of those tourist destinations that more or less does what it says on the box. It towers. And if Eiffel was a verb, and not the name of the architect whose firm designed it, I’m sure that the tower would eiffel more than any other building had ever eiffeled.

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Everywhere near the tower was signs pointing toward the tower saying “tour Eiffel” which is exactly what I wanted to do – a tour of the tower.

Each of the four legs to the tower had a ticket office, where lift or stair passes could be bought. As I was keen to retain my Susanne Somers thighs, I opted for the stairs. After several hundred stairs I reached the first floor, which gave me access to several hundred more stairs up to the second floor, where the view was amazing, and, more importantly, I could buy a beer.

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From there I could purchase a lift ticket to the top floor, which it turned out was no better a view than the second floor. So out of protest I refused to take any photos.

Having descended the lift and then the stairs I reached terra firma and was unsurprised to find exactly what I would have expected at the base of a giant phallic object – a giant set of nuts:

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After that exertion, I lay down on the lawn in front of the tower and had a well deserved nap.

notre dame

From the Eiffel tower I walked to another of Paris’ famous landmarks, the medieval Notre Dame Cathedral.

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Upon entering I immediately saw the hunchback hard at work.

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On entering the church I was surprised to see that the insides of medieval cathedrals look much like the insides of modern cathedrals.

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Which was surprising given that the outsides of medieval cathedrals look like a giant spider taking a shit.

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arene de lutece

After stepping back from the 1800’s construction of the eiffel tower to the 1100’s construction of the Notre Dame cathedral, it was back over a millennia again to the roman arena used for gladiatorial battles. It was incredibly surreal to walk through a seemingly nondescript park into an arena that was home to gladiatorial bouts, people being executed using death by lion, and other forms of barbaric entertainment by the highest civilisation of the time.

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Being in a roman arena in the middle of Paris, it was incredible to think that Asterix and Obelix must have at one time set foot on the same patches of ground.

At this stage, I was hungry, but it was ok because it was Paris and there was a good restaurant nearby, because it was paris.

After dinner it was time for another stroll back along the Seine which is when Paris really came into its own. The smell went down (with the exception of the smell of urine as you passed under bridges) and the view became exceptional as the brown water of the Seine turned blue and began to reflect the many lights.

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This sentence is here solely so that this episode will top the 1,000 word mark and I won’t feel lazy.

 

 

 

next episode

Dave goes to the Louvre, the Musee d’Lorangerie, and the Musee d’Orsay, again, but this time they are open. And he goes to the Catacombs and wanders how they aren’t more famous.

Enjoyed this blog? Well tell your friends. And follow me on twitter. And like my Facebook page.

Episode 31 – The Best of Times and the Worst of Times aka Don’t be a Dickens.

Screen Shot 2016-08-07 at 8.52.38 AMpublished fortnightly on wednesdays.

about this blog

Dave Barr is the comic alter ego of a nondescript human person from Aotearoa New Zealand who confusingly is also called Dave Barr. He has not seen all that much of the world, and has no right to be writing a travel blog. Or any kind of blog whatsoever. Recognising his shortcomings, he has pretty much just resorted to talking rubbish on any particular topic. He really should stop calling this a travel blog.

recap

In Episode 30 Dave looked at a whole heap of old stuff that Britain had pinched from other nations. Naughty Britain.

eurostar

On the first Monday of my European sojourn, I got on the tube and travelled to St Pancras Station in London. St Pancras happened to be right next to this station – the historic King’s Cross Station.

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After repeatedly ramming my face into the wall between platforms 9 and 10 at King’s Cross, I accepted that I was not in fact a wizard and moved on to St Pancras.

As a resident of a country where  a 3 hour flight in any direction is required to find another country and avoid wet feet, the idea of having to go through passport control to catch a train was about as novel as Charles Dickenseses “A Tale of Two Cities”, a lengthy tale about London and Paris. The novel would have moved far quicker had the London to Paris journey been manageable in a 3hr train ride, which it now is, due to the Eurostar and the channel tunnel. Lucky for me.

Embarking on the train, it was a short trip through the english countryside, through the tunnel, into the french countryside and then Paris. All in all the trip was pleasant, but the view from the tunnel was nothing to write home about.

the channel tunnel

The Channel Tunnel is a 50.5-kilometre rail tunnel linking England with France. At its lowest point, it is 75 m deep and the tunnel has the longest undersea portion of any tunnel in the world.

Ideas for a cross-Channel fixed link appeared as early as 1802,but British political and press pressure over the compromising of national security stalled attempts to construct a tunnel.  The eventual project, organised by Eurotunnel, began construction in 1988 and opened in 1994.

Since its construction, the tunnel has faced several problems. Both fires and cold weather have disrupted its operation. Illegal immigrants have attempted to use the tunnel to enter the UK.

However, by far the most notorious incident involving the tunnel was the 2013 discovery of the body of french politician Marie Villaneuve at the Channel Tunnel’s midpoint between France and the UK. The body had been cut in half, and the lower half  of the body belonged to a Welsh prostitute. Stanis Baratheon and Fleur Delacour proceeded to investigate the murder for the English and French Authorities respectively. It later transpired that the murder was a copycat killing of a similar incident on the Copenhagen to Malmo bridge (joining Denmark and Sweden), the investigation of which played out in a very similar manner except it was subtitled.

autocorrect

Autocorrect turned “Stanis Baratheon” to “Stains Baratheon”, so here are some other autocorrected GoT names (just because):

  • Tyrone Lannister
  • Viceroy’s Taragon
  • Areas Taragon
  • Area Stark
  • Sawmill Tardy
  • Then Greyly
  • Jonah Mormont
  • Jon Snow

paris

The first thing I found in Paris was this restaurant, which would no doubt be loved in NZ, but hated in Australia, despite being a clearly superior establishment to La Vegemite.

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french salad

Because we had a big afternoon of walking planned, I decided to have a light salad for lunch. I ordered a salad, and when it arrived on inspection it contained the following ingredients:

  • three potatoes, thinly sliced and deep fried
  • half a kilogram of bacon
  • an entire block of cheese
  • a whole jar of mayonnaise
  • two cherry tomatoes
  • one rocket leaf

My travel companion, a parisian, ordered a chocolate mousse. For lunch. Without being judged. And then the waiter, rather than asking me what I wanted to drink, said “you would like a beer”. He was right.

I realised that I was going to enjoy Paris.

montmartre 

From there it was a gentle stroll toward Montmartre, where we came across this replica of the windmill from the 2001 Baz Luhrmann film Moulin Rouge:

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While it is clear that they had tried their best to build an accurate replica, they just didn’t seem to have matched the look and feel of the original. Much like the problem with these models of the Eiffel Tower that I found in a nearby shop:

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From the replica of the Moulin Rouge it was onward up Montmartre  to this view of Paris:

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And the Sacré-Cœur Basilica:

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I have no idea what Sacré-Cœur means in English, but when you say it aloud it sounds like a swearword – and a pretty intense swearword at that. For that reason I assume it means something completely filthy, and, to protect my browser history, I have refused to use google to find the translation.

champs-elysses

From Sacré-Cœur we meandered down the hill and through some of the side streets and old alleys until we reached the building at the beginning of the Champs-Elysses – the Louvre. A museum so impressive that it has a type of window named after it.

My friend / tour guide explained that the louvre had been the house of the french king Louis XIV (pronounced Lou-ee the fourteenth, rather than Lou-is zhiv as I had always mistakenly believed).

Turns out he was the fourteenth King called Louis, and he was succeeded by Louis the fifteenth who was then succeeded by Louis the sixteenth! It was at that point that I decided I would buy France a book of baby names for Christmas.

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Strolling along the Champs-Elysses is a strange experience. You start off in the beautiful former royal gardens, and then about halfway along the walk you suddenly hit the most high-class stores which are only broken up by the occasional italian restaurant. At the end of the boulevard you reach one of Paris’ famous landmarks, the Arc de Triomphe:

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arc de triomphe

The Arc de Triomphe was commissioned by Napoleon in 1806, construction commenced in 1810, and was completed in 1836.

Designed by architect Jean Chalgin, The monument stands 50m in height, 45m wide and 22m deep. The large vault is 29.19m high and 14.62m wide. The small vault is 18.68m high and 8.44m wide. Its design was inspired by the Roman Arch of Titus. The Arc de Triomphe is built on such a large scale that a biplane was flown through it to celebrate the end of World War II.

The Arc de Triomphe was constructed to allow victorious french armies to march underneath it as part of victory parades when returning from battle. 180 years after its completion, the French people are still waiting for their first opportunity to use the Arc de Triomphe for its intended purpose.

opera house

From the Champs-Elysses it was a short stroll to the Paris Opera House, which has special significance for New Zealanders as it was once terrorised by former Blackcaps fast bowler Chris Martin.

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chris martin’s batting record

Chris Martin has the lowest ratio of runs scored to wickets taken in test cricket, scoring 0.52 of a run for every wicket taken. He has the lowest average for any player who has played more than 20 innings, the record for most pairs and he shares the record for most golden ducks. The main reason why he never got the record for the most ducks is the tendency of batsmen to swing for the fences when he came to the crease, often sacrificing their wicket knowing the innings would soon be over. He comfortably leads the test records for the highest ratio of innings where he was not dismissed. He received standing ovations for, amongst other things, a successful forward defence shot, and playing out an over without being dismissed (when Jesse Ryder was on 99).

Chris Martin, aka the Phantom, was, without doubt, the most exciting batsman ever to play cricket. No one would ever go to the toilet or to make a cup of tea while he was batting (due to both the excitement and the near-certainty that a ten-minute break in play would shortly follow).

fondue

After the parisian salad, I decided that we needed something even heavier for dinner.

What better way to finish the day than with bread and cured meats covered in cheese.

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If everything is better with cheese, why not just have a melted pot of cheese? Ah Paris, you win.

next episode

Dave goes to the Louvre and finds out that it is closed on Tuesdays. Then he goes to the Musee d’Lorangerie, and finds out that it is closed on Tuesdays. So he goes to the Musee d’Orsay, which is closed on Tuesdays. Then he has a nap on the lawn in front of the Eiffel Tower.

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Episode 30 – Colonial thievery

published fortnightly on wednesdays.

about this blog

Dave Barr is the comic alter ego of a nondescript human person from Aotearoa New Zealand who confusingly is also called Dave Barr. He has not seen all that much of the world, and has no right to be writing a travel blog. Or any kind of blog whatsoever. Recognising his shortcomings, he has pretty much just resorted to talking rubbish on any particular topic. He really should stop calling this a travel blog.

recap

In Episode 29 Dave travelled to London, walked over 30 kilometres and visited every tourist icon in London.

Pain

On the first full day I spent in London I walked over 30km to visit every postcard subject from London in one day. the next day I awoke in some significant pain. But there is no rest for Wicked, because that show has been running in the West End for over a decade. So, like the cast of that show I dusted myself of for another day of being a tourist, had breakfast, and caught the train to the British National Museum.

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The British National Museum of Imperial Safekeeping

At the height of the British Empire, the british would travel to the far reaches of the globe to care for the less civilised folk in those areas and teach them how to behave more appropriately ie more britishish.

Recognising that the indigenous cultures of these lands had some wonderful ancient artwork that they neither properly appreciated or knew how to care for, the British magnanimously uplifted the more noteworthy and significant pieces and put them in British museums for safekeeping. Being the generous and venerable people that they are, the British don’t charge a cent for this service, and even allow the former owners of the artwork to visit the museums to look at the cultural heritage for free.

Simply marvellous.

The bulk of the safekeeping took place at the British National Museum, housed in this impressive building:

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Once inside, I discover it was, like the museum of Natural History, home to a very impressive entrance hall:

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The round structure in the middle was home to one of the largest museum giftshops ever built.

As I made my way through the exhibits, one of the first works to catch my eye was this sculpture of the first ever hipster:

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Next I spent some time catching up with my mummy:

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The portraits of ancient romans were all a bit of a bust:

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What was most worrisome was that someone had chiselled the penises of most of the statues:

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This was the only chap who had his bits left intact. But he wouldn’t have been showing off too much:

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(In fairness, the statue was made of marble and marble is alway pretty cold to the touch, so that does explain things.)

After that it was on to the museum’s most famous exhibit, the Rosetta StoneThe Rosetta Stone contains the same decree in ancient greek, a demotic script, and egyptian hieroglyphs. As the script was the same in three languages, the discovery of the stone in 1799 provided a translation template allowing many other ancient egyptian documents to be translated. Here is a photo of the back of the stone (the writing was on the other side but I couldn’t be bothered walking around).

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After that it was on to the ancient Persia exhibition, where I saw some of the earliest tools used for the production of nuclear weapons in Iran:

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And then finally it was on to the african version of the Iron Throne.

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I said last episode that this would be a short episode.

next episode

Dave travels from Europe? to Europe!

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